The Art of Color Theory For Permanent Makeup Lips: Enhancing Features with Pigment Selection

Permanent Makeup Pigment Selection and the Lip Blushing Process

Permanent lip services are currently the second most popular permanent makeup procedure, with eyebrows firmly holding the number one spot—and likely always will. Today’s lip procedures range from subtle enhancements to more defined, fuller-looking results, depending on the client’s goals and pigment selection.

Types of Permanent Lip Procedures

Permanent lip services include:

• Lip liner – From thin, subtle definition to a thicker liner that enhances shape

• Blended or ombré lip liner – A liner softly diffused into the lip for fullness and symmetry

• Full lip tint – Even color applied across the entire lip

• Lip blushing – A softer, semi-transparent application designed to mimic natural lip color

What we now call ombré lips or lip blushing isn’t entirely new—it was once simply referred to as a blended lip liner. The updated terminology sounds more modern, but the technique has evolved to allow for more customization and softer, more natural-looking results.

Lip blushing, in particular, is extremely popular because it adds a youthful pop of color similar to a tinted lip gloss. One of its biggest advantages is versatility: clients can still wear any traditional lipstick over it without the underlying color competing.

Restoring Youthful Lip Color

My personal favorite style of lip blushing is one that restores the natural rosy tone we associate with youth. As we age, the lips gradually lose that fresh pink-red hue—especially along the outer edges. This loss of color can make the lips appear thinner, smaller, and less defined.

Reintroducing that soft blush instantly creates a more youthful appearance. When combined with a blended or ombré lip liner, the lips can appear fuller and minor asymmetry can be corrected without looking overdone.

Choosing the Right Lip Color

Color selection is highly personal and should always be client-driven. I strongly encourage clients to choose a color they are already comfortable wearing. Permanent makeup is not the ideal place to experiment with something completely new, regardless of who is recommending it.

Ideally, clients bring in their favorite lipstick or lip color. I apply it, evaluate how it looks on their skin tone, and either color-match or custom-mix a pigment that closely resembles what they are used to seeing on themselves.

A few important considerations:

• Orangey or peach tones can make teeth appear more yellow, especially if teeth are not naturally very white.

• Peach-based colors tend to fade faster because the yellow undertones disappear over time, often leaving behind a pink result.

Once potential colors are selected or custom-mixed, I swatch the pigment directly on the lips. This step is critical because undertones in the skin can alter how a pigment appears. Seeing the color on the actual lips allows clients to approve the shade confidently before application. This approval process eliminates miscommunication and ensures there are no surprises.

If lip lining or symmetry correction is part of the procedure, the lips are fully mapped and pre-drawn for client approval before any pigment is implanted.

Pigment Selection and Fade Considerations

Pigment choice is especially important for lips because they fade faster than any other permanent makeup procedure. This is due to several factors:

• Lips are not true skin—they are the exterior of a mucous membrane

• Reds fade faster than other pigment families

• Lips naturally exfoliate and reject pigment more readily

For these reasons, I primarily use mineral-based, inorganic (iron oxide) pigments. They create a more natural appearance and fade predictably and true to color over time.

I generally avoid carbon-based pigments for lips because they do not fade as gracefully. That said, there are a small handful of hybrid pigments with minimal carbon content that I consider safe and stable for lip use. These are the only carbon-containing pigments I will use for lips, based on long-term healed results I’ve personally observed. Otherwise, iron oxide pigments remain my standard.

The Application Process

Once all colors and designs are approved, the application begins. My first pass focuses on lightly implanting pigment along the lip border to establish and “lock in” the shape. After this pass, the client receives additional numbing.

Throughout the procedure, I continue numbing as needed to keep the client comfortable. Pigment is layered gradually, respecting the skin’s tolerance.

Immediately after the procedure, lips will appear significantly more vivid than the healed result—and often brighter than the approved color swatch. This is completely normal and expected. Lips lose more pigment during healing than eyebrows or eyeliner, so this initial intensity is actually ideal.

Healing, Saturation, and When to Stop

Lips can only tolerate a certain amount of pigment in one session. As swelling increases, the lips begin to reject pigment, and continued passes become ineffective. At this point:

• Pigment will no longer implant properly

• Bleeding may occur

• Overworking the tissue causes unnecessary trauma

Even if a client has a high pain tolerance, continuing beyond this point serves no purpose. The skin tells us when it’s time to stop, and it’s critical that we listen.

If a client desires more saturation or a more opaque finish, an additional session must be scheduled after healing. Layering pigment over multiple sessions produces far better, longer-lasting results than attempting to “pack” color into one appointment.

Oxidation and Final Results

In the first few days following the procedure, lips may appear darker than expected. This is due to oxidation and is temporary. I’ve seen soft pink-plum shades temporarily deepen to burgundy tones within 24–48 hours, which can understandably alarm clients. However, this darkness fades as the lips heal.

True color begins to emerge after about 2–3 weeks, with final results visible around 4 weeks post-procedure. At that point, clients can decide whether they are satisfied with the color or would like an additional session to enhance depth and vibrancy.